The change of women fashion
In the beginning of the war women had ‘Directoire’ looks with hobble skirts and huge hats, however in the end of the war women wore shorter skirts, trousers & trench coats. The clothing started to loose the ‘Edwardian' style,and started to draw inspiration from the military (tunics, jackets, belts and epaulets). Eventually, skirts became shorter and more practical. This is because men went to war, so women had to take over their responsibilities (i.e driver, nurse, farm workers) . Skirts also became shorter allowing women to move easily since the jobs Involved physical movement. Women's lifestyle also became plainer through time. This made women use jewellery less, and go for sleeker and lined designs. Before the war, Paris led the world of fashion. But due to the seclusion of war, and the loss of communication between the US and Europe, New York emerged as a fashion leader with new designs based on a combination of femininity and practicality. There were three main reasons for the change in women's fashion; 1) lack of materials, materials brought more to the military side, the uniforms, material distribution etc. 2) A change in women's rights, they where permitted to show more skin if they wanted to, thus the dropped necklines, hemlines and sleeves. 3) Due to shortage of men, women were allowed to work, the dresses they wore needed more movement and they couldn't get stuck in machinery. This made sure that the materials were less flowing and long.
DRESSES: 1914
Complexity of cut increases in these dresses. Skirts begin to "hobble" with more drapery and more variety. Dresses feature the new “peg-top” skirt, which is full at the hips and narrow at the foot.
DRESSES: 1915
Open necks and wide skirts begin to appear in these dresses, skirts start to become more practical and useful. The fashion was affected drastically with the "war Crinoline"( A coarse stiff fabric, originally of cotton and horsehair, used especially to line and stiffen the hats and garments. Petticoats were made of this fabric. Helpful for hoop skirt.)
DRESSES: 1916
Soft and feminine, these dresses maintain the slightly higher waist with wide, romantic skirts.
DRESSES: 1917
We see the effects of World War One in dresses with shorter skirts and military flair. Also uses the “slip over the head” type of neck.
DRESSES: 1918
Simple lines take hold in these attractive dresses. Mobility and comfort are featured with fuller skirts. Also noticeable are the more structured necklines and designs. Skirts narrowed again, hemlines began to fall. By 1919 simple clean lines could be seen, although the waist lines hadn't dropped completely yet.
Complexity of cut increases in these dresses. Skirts begin to "hobble" with more drapery and more variety. Dresses feature the new “peg-top” skirt, which is full at the hips and narrow at the foot.
DRESSES: 1915
Open necks and wide skirts begin to appear in these dresses, skirts start to become more practical and useful. The fashion was affected drastically with the "war Crinoline"( A coarse stiff fabric, originally of cotton and horsehair, used especially to line and stiffen the hats and garments. Petticoats were made of this fabric. Helpful for hoop skirt.)
DRESSES: 1916
Soft and feminine, these dresses maintain the slightly higher waist with wide, romantic skirts.
DRESSES: 1917
We see the effects of World War One in dresses with shorter skirts and military flair. Also uses the “slip over the head” type of neck.
DRESSES: 1918
Simple lines take hold in these attractive dresses. Mobility and comfort are featured with fuller skirts. Also noticeable are the more structured necklines and designs. Skirts narrowed again, hemlines began to fall. By 1919 simple clean lines could be seen, although the waist lines hadn't dropped completely yet.