The change of women fashion
In the beginning of the war women had ‘Directoire’ looks with hobble skirts and huge hats, however in the end of the war women wore shorter skirts, trousers & trench coats. The clothing started to loose the ‘Edwardian' style,and started to draw inspiration from the military (tunics, jackets, belts and epaulets). Eventually, skirts became shorter and more practical. This is because men went to war, so women had to take over their responsibilities (i.e driver, nurse, farm workers) . Skirts also became shorter allowing women to move easily since the jobs Involved physical movement. Women's lifestyle also became plainer through time. This made women use jewellery less, and go for sleeker and lined designs. Before the war, Paris led the world of fashion. But due to the seclusion of war, and the loss of communication between the US and Europe, New York emerged as a fashion leader with new designs based on a combination of femininity and practicality. There were three main reasons for the change in women's fashion; 1) lack of materials, materials brought more to the military side, the uniforms, material distribution etc. 2) A change in women's rights, they where permitted to show more skin if they wanted to, thus the dropped necklines, hemlines and sleeves. 3) Due to shortage of men, women were allowed to work, the dresses they wore needed more movement and they couldn't get stuck in machinery. This made sure that the materials were less flowing and long.
DRESSES: 1914
Complexity of cut increases in these dresses. Skirts begin to "hobble" with more drapery and more variety. Dresses feature the new “peg-top” skirt, which is full at the hips and narrow at the foot.
DRESSES: 1915
Open necks and wide skirts begin to appear in these dresses, skirts start to become more practical and useful. The fashion was affected drastically with the "war Crinoline"( A coarse stiff fabric, originally of cotton and horsehair, used especially to line and stiffen the hats and garments. Petticoats were made of this fabric. Helpful for hoop skirt.)
DRESSES: 1916
Soft and feminine, these dresses maintain the slightly higher waist with wide, romantic skirts.
DRESSES: 1917
We see the effects of World War One in dresses with shorter skirts and military flair. Also uses the “slip over the head” type of neck.
DRESSES: 1918
Simple lines take hold in these attractive dresses. Mobility and comfort are featured with fuller skirts. Also noticeable are the more structured necklines and designs. Skirts narrowed again, hemlines began to fall. By 1919 simple clean lines could be seen, although the waist lines hadn't dropped completely yet.
Nurses in the war
· Over 2,000 women offered their services in 1914, many declining a salary, and from this list individuals were dispatched to areas of hostility including France, Belgium, Serbia and Gallipoli
· From 1915 onwards partially trained women from the VADs who were posted to undertake less technical duties joined them.
· VADs (voluntary aid detachment) had to be between 23 and 38 years old. Women under 23 were rarely registered as nurses with the Red Cross, but the rule was not enforced for women over 38 who had no diminished capacity.
· The number of volunteers increased dramatically in the early years of the First World War and by 1918 there were over 90,000 British Red Cross VADs.
· After the first few months, the general rule was that nurses were only sent abroad after they had served for at least two months under the Joint War Committee in an auxiliary hospital at home and had received a favourable report.
· After one year’s service with the Joint War Committee, the rate of pay was automatically increased by 16s. 8d. per month. This took effect from 1 July 1917 and applied to all nurses on the pay roll on 30 June 1916.
Traditional Uniform used
THE DRESS : Blue dress of specified material (red canton for commandants, blue lustre for members) to be in one length from throat to ankle, and sufficiently full to be worn, if needed, over ordinary dress. To be buttoned in front under a two-inch box pleat, slightly gathered in front at shoulder and neck and finished with one-inch-wide neck-band on which to fasten white or blue collar. The bottom of skirt to have a two-inch hem and two one-inch tucks.
The sleeves for the commandant to be a small bishop shape with a three-inch wrist-band and fastening with two buttons. The sleeves for a member shall not come below the elbow. Ground clearance (pre- 1917) four inches; (1917–1930) six inches.
THE HAT : A well starched "sister Dora" hat to be worn across the head. 1911–1915: “Sister Dora” pattern in one piece, having a three-inch hem to turn over in front, which is square, the other part being rounded, having a narrow hem and a flat material tape stitched round from hem, and 12 inches in from the edge, through which a narrow tape is run. 1915–1930 (during and after war period) : an oblong of white cambric or linen, unstarched, in two sizes, 28 inches by 19 inches, or 27 inches by 19 inches, hemstitched all round two inches from edge, placed centrally on the head, the front edge to be worn straight cross the forehead and the two corners of front edge brought straight round the head fastening at the back with plain safety pin over the folds
THE COLLAR : Stiff, white (on in some cases blue) , stand-up shaped, linen collar of the improved “Sister Victoria” pattern, fastened by one or two white studs or a soft turned-down collar of white linen fastened on the back, that may be worn with the working dress and fastened with a safety pin brooch bearing the Society’s emblem, viz. a shield with a red cross on white ground.
For the nurses, white linen over sleeves, 15 inches long, fastening at cuff with one button and with elastic at elbow. For the commandant, stiff white linen over sleeves, fastening with one white stud. This only refers to British red cross, in some cases blue and green were recognizable.
THE APRON: A white apron with the Red Cross emblem displayed on the front. Made of linen, with bib pleated in band and continuing in straps (without join), cut in three widths and pleated in band at sides. On both sides is a large square pocket stitched on, the front part of pocket having a narrow strip continuing upward and stitched in the two-inch waist-band, fastening at back with linen button, the straps crossing over and also buttoning about five inches from either side of center at the back. The Red Cross of Turkey twill, 42 inches in height and length, and of the authorized Geneva pattern, with each limb 12 inches square to be sewn on center of bib, the bottom of apron being finished with a two-inch hem. Length to be the same as overall.
THE BELT: A starched white linen belt, two and a half inches wide, starched, to be worn over apron
All uniform worn with black boots and black stockings.
The change of soldiers uniforms
Through out the time the soldier uniforms changed from extravagant looks, flamboyant colours to more practical and less colourful, camouflaged uniforms. Since war got industrialised it was no longer important to show off the boldness of the soldiers with bright colours. It was important to be able to hide your self as much as possible in order to survive from the gun bullets. At the start of the war, the countries provided uniforms that had strong colours and patriotic values, these showed colourful clothing and uniforms without much protection. As soon as they entered war, they didn't see what they had expected, and thousands were massacred. It was easy to spot the soldiers, as their uniforms had the opposite of camouflage and when they were shot, the uniforms did little to protect them. Throughout the war time, the uniforms changed to hold more functionality, duller colours and more structured uniforms, that held more layers, and therefore protection. Often a uniform near the end would have an over coat, an under coat and then the standard uniform, this protected them from natural causes; humidity, weather, temperature and climate.
French uniform 1914
These uniforms had a bold and brilliant in colour, they suited more for the battlefields of the 19th century.
The coat was made of iron blue wool, officially called "gris de fer bleuté" ("bluish iron gray"). It was constituted of 90% indigo-dyed and 10% raw (undyed) wool.
The trousers of the were made of madder wool. The striking red that was intended to instill the sense of boldness in the soldier.
The headgear of the French soldier, the képi, was also made from madder wool .
British uniform 1914
The design of the WW1 uniform hardly changed in the British Army until 1937.
The jacket had 4 front pockets, reinforced rectangular shoulder patches to help against the weight and chafing of the equipment.
They used M1905 service dress cap as Headwear. It was worn with the regimental brass cap badge.
They also wore long cloth putties that rolled around the legs from the top of the ankle boots to just below the knee.
Scottish uniform 1914
In 1914 the Scottish Highlander was one of the most visually striking of all Allied troops in the World War 1. Each Regiment had it's own pattern and coloured Glengarry.
The headgear is called a Glengarry. The Glengarry had different bands, cap badge, silk ribbon and the Toorie.
The Kilt was made from a piece of pleated woollen cloth which was wrapped around the waist and fastened on the sides with buckles. The thick wool used in the kilt made it warm but the folds in the pleats could hold lice and it would soak up any water making it even heavier.
It was said that the Germans feared the Scottish army due to their uniform, the skirts would move well, and when marching together the colours and movement would seem more united.
German uniform 1914
This is a Waffenrock uniform for all foot-troops designed in 1842; they were worn with a tall leather spiked helmet called a Pickelhaube. They are considered the first "modern" military uniform and helmet, which still shows their influence in today's military dress.
The collar height on issue Waffenrock ranged from 4.5 to 5 cm. Buttons were reduced in size from 25mm to 21mm.
The color of the Waffenrock ranged from light to dark blue or green and the collar and cuffs came in a rainbow of colors as did the shoulder straps.
The Waffenrock was made of a material called Tuch, which was heavy wool.
British uniform 1916
The british started to use MK1 Brodie Helmets. They also started to carry anti gas hoods.
The British Army was one of the few Countries in the early 20th Century that had changed from leather equipment to the new cotton webbing. The new webbing was lighter, more comfortable, gave better weight distribution and fitted together better than previous systems.
They also made the putties shorter.
Scottish uniform 1916
The Glengarry was replaced with the drab woolTam o' Shanter hat as it was too bright for modern warfare.
In 1916 the Scottish started to wear a khaki cotton drill cover over the kilt, as it again was too bright and colourfull. The kilt cover was a light brown khaki apron which covered the Scottish kilt.
German 1915
This is a uniform based on the Waffenrock uded in 1914, however the colours are less brilliant. The Pickelhaube is also more simple.
From this year the brass buttons made in 1914 were subdued, painted or chemically darkened, and the new buttons were made off sandblasted zinc or steel. This was to lessen the shine, making them less visible.
Boots, gas masks, and helmets
The German, "Stahlhelm" replaced the Picklehaube in 1916. It was a much more practical alternative to the leather helmet because it was made from metal and therefore was far more durable. This helmet was so successful that it went on to be used in WW2.
Victory medal that was issued by the allies after the war to show service for one's country. 5.7 million were issued. It was called the Allied Victory Medal, also known as the "Wilfred".
Brodie helmet was created in 1916 by John Leopold Brodie and was used to replace the leather caps previously a part of the British and State's uniform.
This medal was established in 1917 for those who had served in France and Belgium during 1914. It was called the 1914 Star or the "Pip" or "Mons Star".
These boots were originally very crude and impractical for life in the trenches but all countries fighting had a variation of the same design. In 1917 however, improvements were made to the boots so that they were more water proof and slipped less in the mud because of the metal tread.
The German, "Picklehaube" was invented in 1842 by King Frederick William IV. It was a symbol of Germany and was the main identifier of German soldiers at the beginning of WW1.
This gas mask was the final one used in ww1 and is more similar to modern designs. A small filter on the front of the mask was able to replace the large canisters of the previous mask, overall making it much easier for combat.
This gas mask was an attempt at improvement after the gasses being used in the war changed. The hose at the front attached to a canister that the soldier would have to carry around during combat. This was problematic when a soldier was required to get back to the trenches weighed down by air canisters and bulky masks.
The original gas masks were make shift designs, a product of how unexpected the gas attacks were. This example is simply a piece of cloth with a glass eye-slot. This was impractical as the glass was easily broken during combat. The idea was that the cloth would be dipped in something acidic to combat the alkaline gas. This became irrelevant later in the war when more advanced chemical warfare came into play.
These items are were some of the most notable changes occurred. You can clearly see here how research and experience changed how these items were designed and how they were used. The items underwent changes around the same time, however different countries focused on different aspects of combat and therefore there military accessories progressed at different rates.
In the beginning of the war women had ‘Directoire’ looks with hobble skirts and huge hats, however in the end of the war women wore shorter skirts, trousers & trench coats. The clothing started to loose the ‘Edwardian' style,and started to draw inspiration from the military (tunics, jackets, belts and epaulets). Eventually, skirts became shorter and more practical. This is because men went to war, so women had to take over their responsibilities (i.e driver, nurse, farm workers) . Skirts also became shorter allowing women to move easily since the jobs Involved physical movement. Women's lifestyle also became plainer through time. This made women use jewellery less, and go for sleeker and lined designs. Before the war, Paris led the world of fashion. But due to the seclusion of war, and the loss of communication between the US and Europe, New York emerged as a fashion leader with new designs based on a combination of femininity and practicality. There were three main reasons for the change in women's fashion; 1) lack of materials, materials brought more to the military side, the uniforms, material distribution etc. 2) A change in women's rights, they where permitted to show more skin if they wanted to, thus the dropped necklines, hemlines and sleeves. 3) Due to shortage of men, women were allowed to work, the dresses they wore needed more movement and they couldn't get stuck in machinery. This made sure that the materials were less flowing and long.
DRESSES: 1914
Complexity of cut increases in these dresses. Skirts begin to "hobble" with more drapery and more variety. Dresses feature the new “peg-top” skirt, which is full at the hips and narrow at the foot.
DRESSES: 1915
Open necks and wide skirts begin to appear in these dresses, skirts start to become more practical and useful. The fashion was affected drastically with the "war Crinoline"( A coarse stiff fabric, originally of cotton and horsehair, used especially to line and stiffen the hats and garments. Petticoats were made of this fabric. Helpful for hoop skirt.)
DRESSES: 1916
Soft and feminine, these dresses maintain the slightly higher waist with wide, romantic skirts.
DRESSES: 1917
We see the effects of World War One in dresses with shorter skirts and military flair. Also uses the “slip over the head” type of neck.
DRESSES: 1918
Simple lines take hold in these attractive dresses. Mobility and comfort are featured with fuller skirts. Also noticeable are the more structured necklines and designs. Skirts narrowed again, hemlines began to fall. By 1919 simple clean lines could be seen, although the waist lines hadn't dropped completely yet.
Nurses in the war
· Over 2,000 women offered their services in 1914, many declining a salary, and from this list individuals were dispatched to areas of hostility including France, Belgium, Serbia and Gallipoli
· From 1915 onwards partially trained women from the VADs who were posted to undertake less technical duties joined them.
· VADs (voluntary aid detachment) had to be between 23 and 38 years old. Women under 23 were rarely registered as nurses with the Red Cross, but the rule was not enforced for women over 38 who had no diminished capacity.
· The number of volunteers increased dramatically in the early years of the First World War and by 1918 there were over 90,000 British Red Cross VADs.
· After the first few months, the general rule was that nurses were only sent abroad after they had served for at least two months under the Joint War Committee in an auxiliary hospital at home and had received a favourable report.
· After one year’s service with the Joint War Committee, the rate of pay was automatically increased by 16s. 8d. per month. This took effect from 1 July 1917 and applied to all nurses on the pay roll on 30 June 1916.
Traditional Uniform used
THE DRESS : Blue dress of specified material (red canton for commandants, blue lustre for members) to be in one length from throat to ankle, and sufficiently full to be worn, if needed, over ordinary dress. To be buttoned in front under a two-inch box pleat, slightly gathered in front at shoulder and neck and finished with one-inch-wide neck-band on which to fasten white or blue collar. The bottom of skirt to have a two-inch hem and two one-inch tucks.
The sleeves for the commandant to be a small bishop shape with a three-inch wrist-band and fastening with two buttons. The sleeves for a member shall not come below the elbow. Ground clearance (pre- 1917) four inches; (1917–1930) six inches.
THE HAT : A well starched "sister Dora" hat to be worn across the head. 1911–1915: “Sister Dora” pattern in one piece, having a three-inch hem to turn over in front, which is square, the other part being rounded, having a narrow hem and a flat material tape stitched round from hem, and 12 inches in from the edge, through which a narrow tape is run. 1915–1930 (during and after war period) : an oblong of white cambric or linen, unstarched, in two sizes, 28 inches by 19 inches, or 27 inches by 19 inches, hemstitched all round two inches from edge, placed centrally on the head, the front edge to be worn straight cross the forehead and the two corners of front edge brought straight round the head fastening at the back with plain safety pin over the folds
THE COLLAR : Stiff, white (on in some cases blue) , stand-up shaped, linen collar of the improved “Sister Victoria” pattern, fastened by one or two white studs or a soft turned-down collar of white linen fastened on the back, that may be worn with the working dress and fastened with a safety pin brooch bearing the Society’s emblem, viz. a shield with a red cross on white ground.
For the nurses, white linen over sleeves, 15 inches long, fastening at cuff with one button and with elastic at elbow. For the commandant, stiff white linen over sleeves, fastening with one white stud. This only refers to British red cross, in some cases blue and green were recognizable.
THE APRON: A white apron with the Red Cross emblem displayed on the front. Made of linen, with bib pleated in band and continuing in straps (without join), cut in three widths and pleated in band at sides. On both sides is a large square pocket stitched on, the front part of pocket having a narrow strip continuing upward and stitched in the two-inch waist-band, fastening at back with linen button, the straps crossing over and also buttoning about five inches from either side of center at the back. The Red Cross of Turkey twill, 42 inches in height and length, and of the authorized Geneva pattern, with each limb 12 inches square to be sewn on center of bib, the bottom of apron being finished with a two-inch hem. Length to be the same as overall.
THE BELT: A starched white linen belt, two and a half inches wide, starched, to be worn over apron
All uniform worn with black boots and black stockings.
The change of soldiers uniforms
Through out the time the soldier uniforms changed from extravagant looks, flamboyant colours to more practical and less colourful, camouflaged uniforms. Since war got industrialised it was no longer important to show off the boldness of the soldiers with bright colours. It was important to be able to hide your self as much as possible in order to survive from the gun bullets. At the start of the war, the countries provided uniforms that had strong colours and patriotic values, these showed colourful clothing and uniforms without much protection. As soon as they entered war, they didn't see what they had expected, and thousands were massacred. It was easy to spot the soldiers, as their uniforms had the opposite of camouflage and when they were shot, the uniforms did little to protect them. Throughout the war time, the uniforms changed to hold more functionality, duller colours and more structured uniforms, that held more layers, and therefore protection. Often a uniform near the end would have an over coat, an under coat and then the standard uniform, this protected them from natural causes; humidity, weather, temperature and climate.
French uniform 1914
These uniforms had a bold and brilliant in colour, they suited more for the battlefields of the 19th century.
The coat was made of iron blue wool, officially called "gris de fer bleuté" ("bluish iron gray"). It was constituted of 90% indigo-dyed and 10% raw (undyed) wool.
The trousers of the were made of madder wool. The striking red that was intended to instill the sense of boldness in the soldier.
The headgear of the French soldier, the képi, was also made from madder wool .
British uniform 1914
The design of the WW1 uniform hardly changed in the British Army until 1937.
The jacket had 4 front pockets, reinforced rectangular shoulder patches to help against the weight and chafing of the equipment.
They used M1905 service dress cap as Headwear. It was worn with the regimental brass cap badge.
They also wore long cloth putties that rolled around the legs from the top of the ankle boots to just below the knee.
Scottish uniform 1914
In 1914 the Scottish Highlander was one of the most visually striking of all Allied troops in the World War 1. Each Regiment had it's own pattern and coloured Glengarry.
The headgear is called a Glengarry. The Glengarry had different bands, cap badge, silk ribbon and the Toorie.
The Kilt was made from a piece of pleated woollen cloth which was wrapped around the waist and fastened on the sides with buckles. The thick wool used in the kilt made it warm but the folds in the pleats could hold lice and it would soak up any water making it even heavier.
It was said that the Germans feared the Scottish army due to their uniform, the skirts would move well, and when marching together the colours and movement would seem more united.
German uniform 1914
This is a Waffenrock uniform for all foot-troops designed in 1842; they were worn with a tall leather spiked helmet called a Pickelhaube. They are considered the first "modern" military uniform and helmet, which still shows their influence in today's military dress.
The collar height on issue Waffenrock ranged from 4.5 to 5 cm. Buttons were reduced in size from 25mm to 21mm.
The color of the Waffenrock ranged from light to dark blue or green and the collar and cuffs came in a rainbow of colors as did the shoulder straps.
The Waffenrock was made of a material called Tuch, which was heavy wool.
British uniform 1916
The british started to use MK1 Brodie Helmets. They also started to carry anti gas hoods.
The British Army was one of the few Countries in the early 20th Century that had changed from leather equipment to the new cotton webbing. The new webbing was lighter, more comfortable, gave better weight distribution and fitted together better than previous systems.
They also made the putties shorter.
Scottish uniform 1916
The Glengarry was replaced with the drab woolTam o' Shanter hat as it was too bright for modern warfare.
In 1916 the Scottish started to wear a khaki cotton drill cover over the kilt, as it again was too bright and colourfull. The kilt cover was a light brown khaki apron which covered the Scottish kilt.
German 1915
This is a uniform based on the Waffenrock uded in 1914, however the colours are less brilliant. The Pickelhaube is also more simple.
From this year the brass buttons made in 1914 were subdued, painted or chemically darkened, and the new buttons were made off sandblasted zinc or steel. This was to lessen the shine, making them less visible.
Boots, gas masks, and helmets
The German, "Stahlhelm" replaced the Picklehaube in 1916. It was a much more practical alternative to the leather helmet because it was made from metal and therefore was far more durable. This helmet was so successful that it went on to be used in WW2.
Victory medal that was issued by the allies after the war to show service for one's country. 5.7 million were issued. It was called the Allied Victory Medal, also known as the "Wilfred".
Brodie helmet was created in 1916 by John Leopold Brodie and was used to replace the leather caps previously a part of the British and State's uniform.
This medal was established in 1917 for those who had served in France and Belgium during 1914. It was called the 1914 Star or the "Pip" or "Mons Star".
These boots were originally very crude and impractical for life in the trenches but all countries fighting had a variation of the same design. In 1917 however, improvements were made to the boots so that they were more water proof and slipped less in the mud because of the metal tread.
The German, "Picklehaube" was invented in 1842 by King Frederick William IV. It was a symbol of Germany and was the main identifier of German soldiers at the beginning of WW1.
This gas mask was the final one used in ww1 and is more similar to modern designs. A small filter on the front of the mask was able to replace the large canisters of the previous mask, overall making it much easier for combat.
This gas mask was an attempt at improvement after the gasses being used in the war changed. The hose at the front attached to a canister that the soldier would have to carry around during combat. This was problematic when a soldier was required to get back to the trenches weighed down by air canisters and bulky masks.
The original gas masks were make shift designs, a product of how unexpected the gas attacks were. This example is simply a piece of cloth with a glass eye-slot. This was impractical as the glass was easily broken during combat. The idea was that the cloth would be dipped in something acidic to combat the alkaline gas. This became irrelevant later in the war when more advanced chemical warfare came into play.
These items are were some of the most notable changes occurred. You can clearly see here how research and experience changed how these items were designed and how they were used. The items underwent changes around the same time, however different countries focused on different aspects of combat and therefore there military accessories progressed at different rates.